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    Granny’s Garden: Our new fabric and wallpaper collection

    Marissa Lundeen
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    Granny’s Garden: Our new fabric and wallpaper collection

    Granny’s Garden: Our new fabric and wallpaper collection

    With spring breathing new life into us after what felt like an eternal winter, we thought this would be the perfect time to release our Granny’s Garden collection. Featuring a variety of roses, tulips, zinnias, and the happiest stripe design you ever did see, this collection is exactly what our souls needed to finally de-winterize.

    As we designed Granny’s Garden, we knew we wanted to incorporate the floral, Laura Ashely-esque grandma-style that has recently been trending but with a fun modern twist. Throughout the design process, we found ourselves reminiscing on our own grandmas’ styles and letting their memory inspire the designs that became the Granny’s Garden collection.

    Mother’s Day is just around the corner, and as we prepared this collection it was so fun to think about the incredible women that have helped shape us. We are reminded of them in so many of the beautiful things around us, especially flowers.

    Why Spoonflower?

    What we love about having our collections on Spoonflower is that we can do all sorts of fabric and wallpaper types. Gone are the days of having to choose between a pattern you love and the fabric you want. Each pattern is offered in a variety of fabrics, giving you the freedom to make exactly what you want.

    You can also choose finished products like pillows, duvets, curtains, dining linens, and tablecloths. Spoonflower helps your creative vision come to life in exactly the way you want it to both look and feel, and we are so excited to have Granny’s Garden available for purchase on their platform!

    On top of that, you can order just the amount of fabric you need so there’s no waste. We’ve been working with Spoonflower for years so it was really a no brainer!

    The inspiration behind our granny collection

    Granny’s Garden was inspired by the many amazing grannies of our Lars team. It’s funny isn’t it, how we come to attach the people we love to different items and places? As we were designing this collection, our team discovered we each had different flowers associated with our grandmothers.

    Incorporating these flowers into the collection was such a special way for us to pay homage to the women who have helped shape us into the creators we are. Granny’s Garden is dedicated to Grandma Annie, Grandma Gloria, Grandma Nora, Grandma Twiss, and Grandma Dorothy and we made scarves in their remembrance. Keep reading to learn more about their individual stories and you’ll probably fall in love with these amazing women and designs as much as we have.

    Grandma Annie’s Tulips

    My grandma’s name is Annie. Both she and my grandpa always cherished their garden and spent hours working in it, even into their late 80s. Growing up, I loved going into my grandparents’ orchard to pick raspberries and peaches, see all the fun flowers, and lay in the tall grass. I remember when I was little my grandpa would get all of the cousins amped to attack the “invaders” of the garden (AKA the weeds). We would all grab our tools and go to battle to help Grandpa with his weeding!

    They made our time cultivating flowers, fruits, and vegetables memorable and exciting. Grandma Annie would always have flowers from the garden on the table when we had dinner together and would consistently think of others before herself. I love how simple it is to add flowers to your kitchen decor, yet it feels so impactful. One of my favorite nights I remember spending with her and my grandpa, I brought over a bouquet of tulips and we chatted about how they had built their life together and the things they loved. My Grandma Annie passed away in 2022, so now flowers are a special way for me to remember her.

    – Jenny, Brand Manager

    Grandma ​​Gloria’s Zinnias

    Roses are classic and romantic. French parrot tulips are elegant and striking. To build on this collection, I needed a happy, round flower with a lot of petals. I ended up choosing one of my favorites: the zinnia.


    The collection’s oversized zinnias are named after my grandmother, Gloria. She recently passed away and in going through her things I happened upon a bunch of photos of her that I’ve never seen before. One of my favorites is a candid photo of her in her early 20s wearing a summer dress with the biggest, beaming smile. It’s the same smile you’d have if someone gave you an overflowing bouquet of bright, colorful flowers.

    – Garet, Designer & Illustrator

    Grandma Nora’s Mini Zinnies

    This pattern is named after our photographer Jane’s grandmother. When I asked Jane which grandmother she wanted to name a floral pattern after she said, “I never knew my Japanese grandmother but I can’t wait to meet her one day. Her name was Noriko Kobiyashi, but I know she went by Nora for short. I hope to name my daughter after her one day.”

    So in honor of Nora, I designed mini zinnias. I love how sweet and cheerful this pattern turned out! The way the zinnias are distributed and rotated in the pattern makes it feel like they are dancing. Honestly, it might be my favorite pattern of the bunch. With so many oversized florals, Nora’s mini zinnies really complete the collection.

    – Garet & Jane, Photographer

    Grandma Twiss’s Stripes

    ​​My Grandmother, Twiss Roper Nielson, was a gardener extraordinaire. She grew a bounty of vegetables for survival but flowers were her passion. Her acre-sized kitchen garden was filled with flowers and her petunias were so abundant they literally grew like weeds. They came back every year and she would have to dig up petunias to make room for the vegetables. You could smell the flowers in her yard nearly a block away! I won several flower show competitions as an elementary student with her exotic “Cockscomb” (Celosia).

    – Kerry, Accountant

    Grandma Dorothy’s Roses

    My grandparents built their Los Angeles home in 1951. They developed a lovely garden with lush grass, a mossy area, and tons of flowers, of course. They were the most gracious hosts to weddings, showers, and tons of guests. Everyone who knew them called them angels on earth and I will support that statement. Flowers will always remind me of my them, and especially my grandmother. She had a sewing room off to the side of their house where she taught me how to sew. She collected fabrics from all over the world from her adventures and housed them in an overflowing cabinet. I dream about that cabinet!

    – Brittany, Founder & Creative Director

    Granny’s Garden: wallpapers and fabrics

    These spring patterns are sure to blossom in any home, project (try this envelope pillow!), or garden and remind you of your happiest, floweriest memories. We hope you can use them to create something as bright, inviting, and timeless as the women who inspired them. As we leave winter hibernation and say hello to the land of warmth and sun (and flowers!), we’re excited to see all that you do with our Granny’s Garden! And remember, you reap what you sew!

    We can’t wait to see what you come up with! Show us what you’re making with #LarsFabrics

    Happy Mother’s Day and happy spring!

     

    Cute sewing patterns for dresses

    Brittany
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    Cute sewing patterns for dresses

    Cute sewing patterns for dresses

    I have to preface this list. This is not a comprehensive list of all the cute dresses out there. It’s a short list of dresses that I would want to wear right here right now. I have some pretty strict guidelines that I adhere to at this stage in my life (post-baby but still looking like I’m with child–ha!). 1) I like my dresses loose–not form fitting 2) with maybe a puffed sleeve 3) pockets 4) either midi or maxi. Not all these dresses fit the bill 100% but I included some to round up the options.

    The ones below are the ones I’m considering for my project. I’ll make a longer list of cute dress patterns in a follow-up post. There are a lot of great options!

    The short list

     

    View this post on Instagram

     

    A post shared by Brittany Jepsen (@houselarsbuilt)


    If you have any to add–I’d love to hear them. And if you make one, let us all see it by tagging it with #LarsMakes

    Easter Crafts

    Brittany
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    Easter Crafts

    Our Favorite Easter Crafts

    We have so many Easter crafts that we’re just thrilled to share with you this year. Many of them are brand new, too! Need a new Easter Basket? We’re here for you. How about a fresh spring wreath? We’ve also got you covered in that department. Without further ado, here’s the list of our favorite Easter crafts!

    Wreaths

    I love a good wreath. And spring wreaths are some of my favorites! They’re a must have when talking about Easter crafts. This year we have a brand new Palm Leaf Wreath you’re sure to love. It’s delicate, colorful, and festive. Just the thing to celebrate Palm Sunday, Easter and spring all in one go! If you’re feeling more into eggs, try our ever popular Easter egg wreath, or this sweet Honeycomb Easter wreath. Both are lovely and sure to put a little spring in your step. Also, you can’t go wrong with a simple floral theme. This Daffodil Wreath is very appropriate for the season, as is this Lemon Wreath!

    A floral Easter wreath hanging on a pink wall next to a white door. A wooden mushroom is also on the porch.

    Easter Baskets

    You can’t have Easter crafts without Easter baskets! And we have a brand new one for you to try this year. It’s our DIY Easter Basket, and the best part is that it doesn’t require any sewing. Another clever no-sew Easter basket is this Paper Easter basket. Just download, print, cut and assemble, it’s that easy! If you want to sew an adorable bag that doubles as an Easter basket and will be around for years to come, try this carrot shoulder bag! The bonus is it packs up easily and is equally cute.

    If you’re looking for inspiration on what to fill your basket with, look no further than this Easter Basket choose your own adventure. We help guide you through the steps to picking your perfect Easter basket, along with everything to put inside it, like this Paper carrot treat box, carrot surprise balls, or this DIY stuffed bunny. You can also make some of these Danish Easter letters to tuck inside.

    Easter Egg ideas

    As it so happens, we have a lot of Easter crafts that have to do with eggs. Are you really that surprised? I mean, what’s Easter without at least one little nod to an egg or two. Just yesterday, we release the most lovely nesting Easter eggs! We love the little twist on original nesting dolls. Also try these Easter egg columns, which are a lovely way to decorate your home this Easter. Don’t forget about these Honeycomb Easter eggs, either! Make them into a wreath or decorate with the individual eggs. Either way they’re lovely!

    Another fun variation on decorating Easter eggs are these dried flowers on Easter eggs, as well as our Pysanky Easter eggs (here’s the E-book of the Pysanky eggs, the profits of which will be donated to the Ukrainian relief effort). If you’re into more decorating, try our DIY pom pom Easter eggs! Or if you’re having a party, you’ll definitely want to take a look at our Easter egg name tags, Easter egg cupcake toppers, and Easter egg runner.

    Felted Easter Eggs

    New this year is a tutorial from Jessica Peterson all about felted Easter eggs. They’re a new classic! All the supplies are listed here! 

    For Kids

    If you have kids, you’ll love these Easter-themed toys, accessories, and activities. First stop: these fun bunny party hats. Having a new baby this spring? You won’t want to miss these adorable DIY Baby bonnets! Or these Easter bunny twist ties.

    Need a craft to do with your kids to keep them busy and happy? You’ll love these Easter Egg coloring pages, the profits of which will be donated to the Ukrainian relief effort. Then there’s our DIY stuffed bunny, which is a sweet little Easter toy. Plop it in your child’s Easter basket and you’re all set!

     

    Easter printables

    A great way to get crafty is with some printables, and we’ve got some great ones!

    These Easter egg coloring pages featuring pysanky are great for older kids.

    Along with our chick and bunny paper dolls and matching color pages.

    Paper crowns

    One thing is for sure, if I had a little girl, I’d be making a paper crown floral crown.

    And we’ve got a few to choose from! These pretty blue, red, pink, and white flower crowns.

    This printable spring crown.A printable flower crown in purple, yellow, pink, white red, and blue being held up by two hands.

    And another handmade paper flower crown perfect for spring.

    Easter paper flowers

    While we’re on the topic of paper flowers, these Easter lilies are a favorite of mine. I think I’m going to try and make them again this year.

    Easter Egg Column People

    A new favorite of mine are these adorable Easter column people. I think they’d make a great tablescape!

    painted Easter egg columns perched on colorful books against a yellow and pink background.

     

    Classic Halloween Costumes

    Brittany
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    Classic Halloween Costumes

    Witch, Bat and Pumpkin

    One of the main requisites of these classic Halloween costumes is simplicity. Of course we love a good elaborate Halloween costume, but sometimes there’s just not time for that. We purposefully designed these three Halloween costumes with that in mind. Some of them do require a bit of sewing, but just simple, straight lines that even the most beginner of sewists can handle. And if you’re not ready for sewing? You’re in luck. Our bat costume can be made with safety pins and staples alone, no sewing required.

    Comfy and Cozy

    One Halloween back in elementary school, I decided I wanted to be a crayon. I made this amazing costume out of a rolled up piece of poster board, decorated it and wore it to school. The only problem was that I didn’t think about sitting down or moving. I was a little robot all day, tottering around in this big tube that wouldn’t allow me to sit down or run around and play. Eventually I just took it off and people had to guess what I was based on my little sweatsuit alone. Not a dream for a child who loved the costume aspect of Halloween.

    I’ve since learned from my crayon Halloween costume experience. We designed these three classic Halloween costumes with your child’s mobility in mind! They can bend, jump and play freely, all while being clearly identifiable as a witch, bat or pumpkin. That said, here’s how to make all three of our classic Halloween costumes:

    How to Make a Witch Costume

    Materials:

    Witch templates, Black poster board, Black fabric (we used a linen/viscose blend–it has the look of linen, but is much cheaper), Black ribbon (1” and ½” wide), a knobbly stick, twine, and raffia.

    Hat

    1. Using the hat template, cut out the hat in black poster board.
    2. Next, roll up the half circle so it’s a cone. The rounded edge will be the bottom edge of the cone.
    3. Now, use a pair of scissors to clip the bottom of the hat all the way around with ½” cuts.
    4. Fold the cuts out and tape or glue the rim of the hat onto them, so they’re hidden underneath.
    5. Last, tie the 1” wide black ribbon around the hat into a bow.

    Dress

    1. First, cut out the front and back of the dress, using the template provided. You can shrink or enlarge the template based on your child’s size.
    2. Next, hem the bottom and sides of both the front and back.
    3. Now, for both front and back, fold the top over twice and sew down to make a casing. Insert a ribbon into each casing, leaving enough slack on each side to tie bows.
    4. Last, sew ribbon onto the sides, as shown in the photos. There should be one on each side of the front and back so they can tie together.

    Broom

    1. The broom is simple! To make it, bundle the raffia around one end of the stick and bind in place with some twine.
    2. Done!

    To embellish the costume, wear a simple black dress, black tights and black boots or mary janes.

    How to Make a Bat Costume

    Materials:

    Bat templates, Faux fur, Black ribbon (1” and ½” wide), Black cardstock, cardboard box (use an old shipping box), black and white acrylic paint, black webbing strap, adjustable strap hardware (optional), Stapler/staples, glue stick, Scissors, craft knife.

    Body

    1. For the body, cut out the template shape for both front and back.
    2. Then, add ribbon to the top two corners of front and back.
    3. Now add ribbon to the sides of both front and back (they should be positioned to tie at the waist). To add ribbon, you can either sew or safety-pin the ribbon on. It’s your preference!

    Wings

    1. First, cut out two of the wings template. They should mirror each other. Tape them together at the center and wherever else you need, if you’re using multiple pieces of cardboard put together.
    2. Next, paint the wings on both sides as shown in the photos. Let the paint dry before moving on to the next step.
    3. Last, staple on straps. If desired, you can make them adjustable, as we did. To see how to make them adjustable, see this tutorial.

    Feet

    1. First, cut out the feet template using cardboard. Curve the ends of the claws over a bit.
    2. Next, paint the feet as shown in the photos.
    3. When the paint is dry, attach the feet to the shoes with ribbon, elastic, or tape.

    Ears

    1. For the ears, cut out two of the ear templates.
    2. Next, fold them together at the slit at the base and tape in place.
    3. Last, cut a length of 1” black ribbon (long enough to tie around your head like a headband) and staple the ears on it.

    Nose

    1. Use the nose template provided to cut out the nose pieces. Use the craft knife for the nostril holes.
    2. Next fold the rectangular piece with narrow accordion folds.
    3. Now cut slits along one edge of the rectangular piece you just folded.
    4. Next, fold the slits out and curve the rectangle around the front nose piece and glue in place.
    5. Last, cut off the excess and shape the nose to your face, then tape in place on your face. If you don’t want to tape, you can also tie the nose around your head with string.

    How to Make a Pumpkin Costume

    Materials

    Pumpkin template, Orange linen/viscose fabric, Black fabric scraps or felt (we used scraps from the witch’s outfit), Green ribbon, Orange cardstock, brown cardstock, green pipe cleaners, scotch tape, scissors, and string. 

    Pumpkin

    1. First, cut out the front and back of the pumpkin costume using the template provided. Remember, you can make it smaller or larger depending on the size of your child.
    2. Next, as with the witch, hem the bottom and both sides of front and back, then make a casing for the top edge.
    3. Now feed a ribbon through the top casings of both front and back, leaving some excess at each end to tie bows.
    4. You’ll also need to sew ribbon to the front and back at the waist, with enough slack to tie.
    5. For the face, cut out the template provided in black fabric. 
    6. Then, fold over and iron each piece so the raw edges are hidden, then pin and sew in place. If you don’t want to fold over and iron each piece, you can use felt or something else that won’t fray.
    7. We sewed our face on the pumpkin, but you can also glue it if you don’t want to sew.

    Hat

    1. For the hat, cut out the template pieces provided (the “c” shape should be cut out in orange, and the rectangle in brown).
    2. Follow the step photos to see how to assemble. Tape the pieces together to secure.
    3. Now wrap pipe cleaner around a pencil to make a spiral, then poke one end into the pumpkin hat and tape on the inside. We added about four pipe cleaner vines to our pumpkin hat.
    4. Last, tape a piece of string to each side of the hat so it can tie around your child’s chin.
    5. Done!

    What did you think of these classic Halloween costumes? Will you use them in a pinch? Drop your comments below!

    More Inspiration

    Did you love these classic Halloween costumes? You might be interested in our other Halloween costumes! Check out our wild things costumes, mommy and me costumes, and best cardboard costumes. For even more costume inspiration, check out this list of our top 15 favorite costumes! Also see influential women costumes, these costumes made from everyday supplies, and these paper costumes. Short on time? Check out these three last minute Halloween costumes! Looking for a real showstopper? Don’t miss our Tortured Artists, Frida Kahlo, or Medusa costumes.

    DIY Roman Shades

    Brittany
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    DIY Roman Shades

    How to Make Your Own DIY Roman Shades

    It turns out making your own DIY Roman shades isn’t as tricky as it seems. All you need are the materials listed above and a little bit of time and you’re all set. Here’s what to do:

    Cutting the Wood Pieces

    1. First, cut the 1” x 2” so it’s a little less than the window width. It should fit snugly inside the window.
    2. Now, cut the wooden dowels to match.

    Prepping your Fabric

    1. First things first: iron out your fabric so it’s nice and flat. What you don’t want are wrinkly Roman shades. Note: washing is optional, since you probably won’t be taking these babies down once they’re screwed into place.
    2. Next, cut the front and lining pieces down to size. Dimensions of the front fabric should be 3 inches wider and 5 inches longer than the window dimensions. The lining should be the same height as the front fabric and one inch shorter than the window width.

    Sewing your Fabric Pieces Together

    1. It’s time to sew the front and lining pieces together. For this, line up one long side of the two fabric pieces, right sides together.
    2. Next, sew it in place using a ½” seam allowance.
    3. Repeat steps 1-2 for the other side. Note that the lining is narrower than the front, so you’ll have to let the front fabric bunch a bit to line up both sides.
    4. Now smooth out the two pieces of fabric so the lining is centered on the front piece. You should have an inch of the front fabric on either side of the lining. 
    5. Next, pin the bottom all along the width and sew in place.
    6. Center the lining along the top edge, as you did in step 4 for the bottom. Now, fold the seam allowance so it faces out on either side and pin in place all along the length. 

    Dowel Measurements

    1. For this, you’ll need to do a little math (it’s simple, don’t worry)!
    2. First, decide how big the gaps between dowels will be. (It will vary depending on how tall the window is, but usually 8-12 inches works well–we used 12).
    3. Next, calculate the excess below the lowest dowel. This one should be ½ the distance between dowels plus 1 inch. So since we have 12 inch gaps, the excess should be 7 inches (half of 12=6+1=7).
    4. Finally, the top measurement. This doesn’t have to be quite as exact, but it just needs to be a bit bigger than the distance between dowels. (For us, that means bigger than 12 inches.
    5. Now, with the wrong side of the front fabric piece face up, draw in the first dowel’s placement. Remember, you’ll have a seam allowance and hem at the bottom, so add 3 inches to the bottom gap (2 ½ inch hem + ½” seam allowance). Our total is now 10 (7+3).
    6. At this point, you can go ahead and measure the placement of the other dowels, using the first dowel as a reference.

    Adding the Dowel Casing

    1. To make casings for your dowels, cut 2” strips that are the same width as the lining. Cut out one strip per dowel.
    2. Fold each strip in half, iron, and sew the open side length closed with a ¼” seam allowance.
    3. Next, cut your stitch witchery to the length of the strips. Cut one strip of stitch witchery for each strip.
    4. Now lay your stitch witchery in place where you marked the dowels, with the sewn strips lined up on top. Iron in place so the strips stick.
    5. After the strips are adhered, slide the dowels into place.
    6. Now you can take out the pins holding the side seam allowances in place. Clip the bottom corners and carefully flip the fabric pieces and dowels so the shade is right side out. If you need, use scissors to help turn the corners. Adjust and straighten everything and iron the seams so everything is nice and flat. 
    7. With the shade right side out, hem up the bottom (end with the finished seam) 2 ½”. Press and sew in place. If you don’t want your stitches to show on the front, you can hand stitch it in place or use a blind hem stitch on the machine.

    Measuring the Ring Placement

    1. You’ll add three rings to each dowel: one on each end, and one in the center.
    2. To calculate the placement, put the cord lock and pulley together so they overlap one screwhole. Measure from the cord lock base to the spot where the cord comes up through the pulley (Roughly 2 ½”).
    3. Now, mark 2 ½” in from the end of each dowel. A ring will go in each of these spots you’ve just marked.
    4. For the middle rings, simply measure halfway between each dowel and mark. If you have 4 dowels, you should now have 12 ring markings total.

    Sewing the Rings in Place

    1. Now hand sew the rings in place according to the markings. To do this, bind the thread around the dowel a few times without catching the front fabric piece with the needle. On the third or fourth time around, catch the front fabric piece in the needle. Then poke the needle back through to the back side, tie off your thread and trim.
    2. Repeat step 1 for each of the rings. Note: make sure the rings are all facing the same direction, with openings pointing downwards so the string can be threaded through seamlessly.

    Attaching the Roman Shades Hardware

    1. To attach the hardware for the roman shades, you’ll first need to mark where it needs to go. To do this, take the wooden board and line it up with the top row of rings you just sewed. Mark the placement of the rings on the board with a pencil.
    2. Now, take one of the three pulleys and line the right side of it up with the right ring marking on the board. Mark the two screw holes.
    3. Repeat step two for the middle pulley.
    4. Now for the far left side. This one will be a little different, since you’ll need both the cord lock and a pulley this time. For this, line up the cord lock with the left edge of the board with the straight edge on the inside (the diagonal edge should be on the outside, closest to the edge of the board). Mark the screw holes. 
    5. Next, line up the last pulley with the cord lock so they share a screw hole. Mark the pulley placement.
    6. All that’s left now is to drill pilot holes, then screw the pulleys in place where you marked them.
    7. In addition to the holes for the pulleys and cord lock, you’ll also want to drill two or three more holes all the way through the board. These will be used to screw the roman shades into place on the window.
    8. Now, with all hardware in place, it’s time to staple the board to the fabric. Measure up from the bottom of the shade and mark the window height. Line up the board with the window height markings, then wrap the excess over the board and staple in place. 

    Adding the Cording

    You’re almost done with your roman shades! Just a few more steps to go. Here’s what’s left:

    1. The last thing to do is to add the cording and tidy things up.
    2. To add the cording, feed the cording up through the rings in the far right row. Tip: to thread the cord through a bit easier, wrap a bit of tape around the end so it doesn’t fray.
    3. When you get to the pulley at the top, feed the cord through the right side and pop it out the opposite side. Repeat for the middle pulley. 
    4. When you get to the far left pulley and cord lock, thread the cord through the pulley as with the other two. Then thread it down the cord lock from the top and pull it through when it pops out the bottom. Pull the cord so there are a few feet of slack. Then clip the cord back by the first ring you started with and tie a knot to secure it to the ring.
    5. Repeat the same process for the remaining two cords. Note: there will be three separate slots to slip the cord through. Make sure each separate cord goes through a different slot, individually.
    6. Once all cords have been threaded through, trim them to the finished length you like. Now, thread them through the pull end, knot them all together, and hide the knot inside of the pull end.
    7. Pull the cord to test out your shades and make sure they’re working right and voila! Your roman shades are finished!

    More Inspiration

    Loved this roman shades tutorial and want more like it? Check out our other home renovation projects! Start with everything we did to our house in one year, and an exclusive studio tour. You also won’t want to miss our laundry room makeover with delta faucet, guest bedroom remodel, bathroom remodel, and new closet system. Oh, and if you haven’t seen it yet, be sure to check out my craft room in the living by design virtual showhouse! Looking to decorate your home? Stop by our shop and see what suits your fancy!

    Sewing Basics: How To Take Measurements

    Brittany
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    Sewing Basics: How To Take Measurements

    Finding the Perfect Fit

    If you’re interested in sewing clothing, either for yourself or for others, knowing how to take measurements is a must. It makes all the difference! Instead of worrying about which size will fit, you can simply take your measurements, look at the size chart, and figure out exactly what size is ideal for your body. And if you’re in between sizes? If you’re shopping for finished clothes, you either have to size up or down. But not so when you’re the one sewing! The main perk of sewing clothing by hand is that you can adjust the pattern–if there’s something that’s a little small or large in one area, you can tailor it to your measurements and it will fit like a glove. But in order to do that, you need to know how to take your measurements correctly. Let’s go!

    Differences Between Mens’ and Womens’ Measurements

    First, let’s talk about how to take measurements for women. Did you know taking womens’ measurements is different than taking mens’ measurements? Yep. That’s because mens’ and womens’ bodies are shaped differently, and the size charts are made with those differences in mind. Men generally have less of a difference between their waist and hip measurements, for starters. They also have different shaped chests and wider shoulders, proportionally. All of that needs to be taken into account when measuring!

    How To Take Measurements For Women

    The following measurements are important for women to take when making clothes. They’re also generally useful for buying clothes when you aren’t sure of your size! 

    Note: When measuring, make sure to remove bulky clothing. Ideally measuring against the skin will give you the most accurate measurement. If that’s not possible, measure with one thin layer of clothing, like leggings and a thin undershirt. Also, it’s nice to have someone else with you to help take measurements because it will make things more accurate. Now let’s learn how to take measurements for women!

    Neck 

    The first measurement to take is the neck. This isn’t required for all patterns, but it’s useful to have on hand. To take the neck measurement, simply measure around the neck. Leave a finger width of slack so you don’t choke yourself with a too-small neck opening.

    High bust

    This measurement isn’t necessary all the time, either, but it can really come in handy if you’re trying to be as precise as possible. To take the high bust measurement, wrap the measuring tape snugly around the torso underneath the armpits. It’s generally most accurate if both arms are outstretched, parallel to the floor.

    Bust

    This is one of the most standard and useful measurements you’ll take, along with the waist and hips. How to take a bust measurement? First, stand with arms out and parallel to the floor. Now wrap the measuring tape around the fullest part of the bust. This is usually in line with the nipples. Don’t pull it too tight, just gently fitted. Also make sure to wear a thin fitted bra–not sports bra (that will squish your ladies!) or a padded pushup (that will give you an inaccurately large measurement). 

    Underbust/band

    This is basically your ribcage size and, along with bust measurement, is the measurement needed to figure out bra size. To take measurements of your underbust, simply wrap the measuring tape around your ribcage just below the bust. Make sure it’s snug but not too tight.

    Natural waist

    You’ll also want to know how to take measurements of the natural waist. This is where your torso bends when you lean to the side. For this measurement, wrap the measuring tape snugly but not too tightly around the natural waist. Leave a little slack so you can breathe in your new outfit later.

    Hip

    Next up: the hips. It’s important to note that the hip measurement is taken at the fullest part of the butt. Basically, you want the widest measurement you can find here so you don’t end up with something disproportionately tight on your booty. To measure, wrap the measuring tape around your hip. Again, don’t wrap too tightly, but avoid slack, too.

    Sleeve length

    The sleeve length is a bit less common, but nonetheless helpful when sewing. You want those sleeves to hit just at the wrist, rather than dangling over the hands or ending up halfway down your arm. To find the sleeve length, measure from the tip of the shoulder to the wrist with the arm bent.

    Back neck to waist

    This measurement is less common but useful to have, especially if you have an unusually short or long torso. To take this measurement, start at the nape of your neck (on your back) and extend the tape down to the natural waistline.

    Inseam

    You’ll also want to know how to take measurements of the inseam. The inseam is a really useful measurement to have when buying or making pants. To find it, measure right at the top of the inside of the leg, up against the crotch, all the way down to the floor.

    Outseam

    The outseam is also useful for pants, skirts, and dresses. For the outseam measurement, go from the natural waist all the way to the floor, this time on the outside of the leg.

    Shoulder

    It’s nice to have the shoulder measurement, too. Especially if you have a blouse or shirt that you want to hit right at the top of the shoulder. You can take each shoulder measurement individually, or the full shoulder width. For individual measurements, start at the end of one shoulder and go to the nape of the neck on the same side. Repeat for the other side. The full width is from one end of the shoulder, all the way across the back, to the other end.

    How To Take Measurements For Men

    The key measurements for men are a bit different than that of women. They’re especially useful if you need to buy a suit or dress shirt. Here are the most important measurements to take for men:

    Neck

    It’s essential to know how to take measurements of the neck! If you’ve ever wanted to surprise your husband, brother or dad with a nice new dress shirt then you’ll know it’s nice to know the neck size. To find the neck size, use the same technique as women.

    Sleeve

    Taking a man’s sleeve measurement is a bit different than for women. Instead of going from the top of the shoulder, go from center back. Then go around a bent, raised elbow all the way to the wrist.

    Chest

    Next up: how to take measurements of the chest. Similar to the bust measurement for women, have him stretch both arms out parallel to the floor. Then measure around the fullest part of the chest after he takes a breath in (so it’s a bit fuller).

    Waist

    The natural waist measurement is the same as for women. Take it where your torso bends when you bend to the side. Unlike women, it’s also nice to take a low waist measurement for reference. That’s where most mens’ pants generally sit. It probably won’t be much different than the natural waist, but it’ll vary a little depending on body type and weight.

    Hip

    You’ll also want to know how to take measurements of the hip! This is also similar to female hip measurements. You’ll simply measure around the fullest part of butt, snugly, but not too loose or tight.

    Inseam

    Last up for men is the inseam. This is also similar to female inseam measurements. Simply measure from crotch to ankle. Tip: if you’re measuring someone else and don’t love the idea of sticking your hand right in their crotch to get the measurement, not to worry. Measure instead from the wrist bone down to the floor on the outside of the leg. That will give you almost exactly the same measurement. 

    Well, that’s a wrap! Questions or comments? Drop them in the comments below!

    More Inspiration

    Loved this post on how to take measurements and want more sewing content? Step right this way! Check out the rest of our Sewing Basics series here. You won’t want to miss this DIY Fanny Pack or these cute DIY pencil cases, either! Also, see more past sewing projects: New Team Outfits, Easter outfits, Casetify inspired projects, shaped throw pillows, Mother’s Day apron, quilted shower curtain, quilted face mask, rainbow buttons, reusable lunch sack, and DIY beeswax wraps. Last but not least: check out our shop for lots of sewing templates! And stay tuned for future sewing basics posts, released on Tuesdays.

    Halloween Garland

    Brittany
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    Halloween Garland

    Paper Halloween Garland

    When it comes to holiday decorations, garlands are one of my favorites. In my opinion, there’s no holiday that couldn’t use a simple garland to spice things up. Especially Halloween! Which is why this Halloween garland is a new favorite of mine. It’s equal parts spooky and cute, which is just what I need from my Halloween decor. Based on our Friendsgiving and Valentine’s Day garlands, this one brings a spooktacular twist to make you feel like Halloween is already in the air. All you need to make this simple project is a Cricut Maker or other die cut machine, some paper, and string/sewing machine thread.

    How to Make Your Own Halloween Garland

    To make your own Halloween garland, follow these simple instructions:

    1. First, download the Halloween garland template found here.
    2. Next, upload the SVG file into the cricut design space. 
    3. Now use your Cricut Maker to cut out each of the shapes provided in the template. We cut roughly 50-80 of each shape. For color palette inspo, see our Halloween garland photos (we used shades of orange, pink, and a little pop of black).
    4. Once your shapes are cut out, you can sew them together into a long strand with your sewing machine! If you don’t have a sewing machine handy, you can also use an embroidery needle and thread some string through by hand. Make one strand per shape (or more, if desired!)
    5. When you’re done making each strand, hang them up and admire! Done!

    You can hang this garland pretty much anywhere and it will look amazing. My personal favorite is over a tablescape for some show stopping party decor. I also love a good mantle garland. But the options don’t end there! Try hanging it along the banister, draping it over archways or doorways, or around windows. 

    What are you going to do with your Halloween garland? Drop your ideas below!

    More Inspiration

    What did you think of our Halloween garland? Let us know in the comments! If you loved this garland, chances are you might be interested in some of our other Halloween garlands, like this DIY vampire teeth garland and DIY toilet paper roll candy garland. You might be interested in our paper garlands for other holidays, too, like our Friendsgiving or Valentine’s Day garlands. Also, check out the options in our Halloween shop!

    Sewing Basics: How to Read Seam Allowances

    Brittany
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    Sewing Basics: How to Read Seam Allowances

    What Is A Seam Allowance?

    First of all, let’s just cover the basics so we’re all on the same page. In order to know how to read seam allowances you should know what a seam allowance is. What is a seam allowance? It’s the excess space between the stitching line and the raw edge of your fabric. When patterns are made, they first draft out the exact measurements of the project according to the stitch line. The last step is to add on the seam allowance. That ensures that your project will be precise, and all measurements of the finished piece correct.

    Seam Allowance Sizes

    The size of the seam allowance varies depending on the pattern company and the project itself. Back in the day, most pattern companies had standard seam allowances, pattern markings, and layouts. Vogue, Butterick, and McCalls are all good examples of this. ⅝” seam allowances were standard unless otherwise indicated. Now, with so many new pattern companies popping up all over, it’s not so universal. Generally, though, seam allowances range anywhere from ⅜” to ⅝” (1-2 centimeters). 

    all seam allowances

    How to Read Seam Allowances

    It can be confusing to know exactly how to read seam allowances in order to get the right seam allowance for your pattern. Here are some simple steps to walk through:

    1. First, check the pattern’s instructions. It will always indicate the standard seam allowance for the pattern. In addition, it will usually tell you when a different seam allowance is required. Sometimes the seam allowance for collars, necklines, or other specific details of your project will be slightly different than, say, a basic side seam. The pattern will always tell you if that is the case.
    2. Next, line up the seam allowance indicated on your pattern with the seam allowance markings on your sewing machine. On our sewing machine, these markings are labeled, which makes it nice and easy! But some machines don’t have all the seam allowances labeled. Easy trick: sew a ¼” seam allowance by lining the edge of the fabric up along the edge of the presser foot. From there, the markings are about an 8th of an inch apart: ⅜”, then ½”, then ⅝”. The markings continue after that, but the main ones to know are the ones we just mentioned.

    1/4" seam allowance3/8" seam allowance1/2" seam allowance5/8" seam allowance3/4" seam allowance7/8" seam allowance1" seam allowance

    That’s what you need to know! Now we want to know: how did it go? Have questions or other thoughts? Drop them in the comments below!

    More Inspiration

    Loved this post on how to read seam allowances and want more sewing content? Step right this way! Check out the rest of our Sewing Basics series here. You won’t want to miss this DIY Fanny Pack or these cute DIY pencil cases, either! Also, see our past sewing projects: New Team Outfits, Easter outfits, Casetify inspired projects, shaped throw pillows, Mother’s Day apron, quilted shower curtain, quilted face mask, rainbow buttons, reusable lunch sack, and DIY beeswax wraps. Last but not least: check out our shop for lots of sewing templates! And stay tuned for future sewing basics posts, released on Tuesdays!

    Ways to Repurpose Scarves

    Brittany
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    Ways to Repurpose Scarves

    Repurpose Your Scarves Three Ways

    Today we’ll be showing you three ways to repurpose your old scarves: throw pillow, scrunchie, and headband. First up? a throw pillow. 

    Throw Pillow

    Making a throw pillow just made sense, since the dimensions of many scarves are about the same as the dimensions needed to make a pillowcase for a 20” throw pillow. The scarves we started with were roughly 18” square. That was perfect for a 20” throw pillow since generally you want your pillowcase to be a few inches smaller than the dimensions of your pillow insert for maximum fullness. 

    How to Make a Throw Pillow From Scarves

    1. First, take two scarves and line them up, right sides together.
    2. Now, sew all the way around the perimeter of your square with a ¼” seam allowance. Leave a gap that’s almost the length of one side of your square so you can flip it right side out after. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.
    3. Next, iron the opening down along the seam allowance. This will make sewing it together easier later.
    4. Now flip your pillowcase right side out and stuff your insert inside.
    5. Last, pin the opening and sew it closed using your sewing machine. For this, it helps to stuff the pillow down so you have a little room to work with as you sew.
    6. All that’s left is to adjust the insert and make sure it’s evenly distributed inside the pillowcase. Done!

    Scrunchie

    Next we’re making a scrunchie. This is such a simple little project that doubles as the perfect accessory! Here’s what to do:

    How to Make a Scrunchie From Scarves

    1. Cut a piece of fabric that’s 4” x 30”. Also cut a piece of elastic that fits loosely on your wrist, plus a few inches. Ours was around 8”.
    2. Next, finish the 4” ends with a zig zag. Then fold and iron both ends over about ¼”, wrong sides together.
    3. Now fold the fabric together lengthwise, pin and sew along the raw edge.
    4. After it’s sewn, flip it right side out with a safety pin. 
    5. Then feed the elastic through, again with a safety pin. 
    6. Once the elastic is in, tie the elastic ends together in a knot.
    7. Now layer one end of the fabric over the other and sew down the width to secure in place.
    8. Done!

    Headband

    Last but not least, here’s a simple headband tutorial! It’s so simple, but looks lovely when finished. Like the scrunchie, it’s a great accessory, especially if you’re in need of a little pop of color. The great thing about this headband is that it’s almost the same as the scrunchie with a few variations. Here’s how to make your own:

    How to Make a Headband From Scarves

    1. First, pick a headband to use as your understructure. Then cut a piece of fabric that’s 4x the headband width and roughly 55” (give or take a little depending on how full you want it).
    2. Next, follow scrunchie steps 2-4.
    3. Once your fabric casing is flipped right side out, you can feed the headband through one end.
    4. Secure that end with hot glue, then feed the headband all the way through the casing so it’s scrunched up evenly. Make sure the seam is on the bottom of the headband so it doesn’t show when you’re wearing it.
    5. Now, just secure the other end with a dab of hot glue and you’re done!

    More Inspiration

    Loved this post on ways to repurpose scarves? If you’re looking for more sewing hacks, try our Sewing Basics series! You might also love this tote to drawstring backpack hack. Also, see some of our recent blog projects like this DIY Fanny Pack, DIY Pencil Case, or Casetify Inspired Fabric Projects. 

    Sewing Basics: Essential Sewing Supplies

    Brittany
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    Sewing Basics: Essential Sewing Supplies

    This post contains affiliate links. Any time you buy something from our affiliate links, we get a small commission at no cost to you!

    Essential Sewing Supplies

    The sewing supplies we’re talking about today are the essentials. They’re the ones I absolutely can’t live without! I use them religiously for probably 99% of my sewing projects. So if you’re lacking some basic sewing supplies but aren’t sure what’s really necessary, read on. I wish I had known about all of these sewing supplies when I first started sewing!

    Note: our focus today is on the little things people might miss but that are incredibly useful. That being said, the big things are important, too! If you don’t already have a sewing machine, iron, and ironing board, invest in them, because you’ll use them for every sewing project.

    Cutting Mat

    This is a sewing supply I haven’t always had, but it will make cutting your fabric much easier and more precise, especially if you’re cutting squares or rectangles for things like quilts. It’s also great for altering hemlines of clothes! I use my cutting mat all the time–please, make your life easier and get yourself a good cutting mat.

    Cutting mats come in many different sizes, but I’ve found that larger is better, if you have the space for it. Get one that will still fit on your table, but that’s big enough to lay out a large amount of fabric at once. My favorite cutting mat is this Fiskars one, but you can also go with this smaller version if you don’t have the space for the larger one. It’s self healing (a must), and gridded, which again, helps a lot when you need exact measurements.

    cutting mat and ruler: essential sewing supplies

    Clear, Gridded Ruler

    I am obsessed with my clear, gridded ruler and would definitely consider it an essential sewing supply! It’s basically replaced my yardstick. The benefits of a clear, gridded ruler? First, it’s clear, so you can easily see the fabric you’re trying to cut underneath it. It makes lining things up much easier. Next, since it’s wider than your average yardstick or ruler, it helps hold the fabric down flat while you’re cutting it–that means extra precision. 

    Rotary Cutter

    Another one of my favorite go-to essential sewing supplies is a rotary cutter. If you’re going to use a clear, gridded ruler, a rotary cutter is a must. It’s impossible to get the same precision from a regular pair of sewing scissors, no matter how neat you are at cutting. The benefit of a rotary cutter is that it allows you to cut perfect, straight lines quickly and efficiently, as long as you have a cutting mat and clear, gridded ruler. 

    Tip: if you’re planning to buy a cutting mat, clear gridded ruler, and rotary cutter, I’d highly recommend saving a bit of money and buying this cutting set. It comes with all three and is a better deal than buying all three separately.

    Essential sewing supply: rotary cutter

    Scissors

    A good pair of sewing scissors is an essential sewing supply everyone needs. While a rotary cutter is excellent to have on hand for straight lines and precision, regular sewing scissors are good for everything else. Cut straight lines, curves, notches, and clip your threads with sewing  scissors. These should never leave your side when you’re sewing.

    Speaking of scissors, the Fiskars scissors we released back in May are now available on our shop! Fiskars is my favorite brand for sewing supplies, and scissors are their specialty. The bonus is that our custom Fiskars scissors happen to be pretty cute, too.

    scissors essential sewing supply

    Flexible Measuring Tape

    A good, flexible measuring tape is another essential sewing supply that you’ll use frequently. It’s especially necessary for taking measurements (those clothes need to fit right!), but it’s also useful for measuring a lot of other things. Since it’s so long, it’s great to have on hand for measuring things like drawstring cording, elastic, fabric and more.

    measuring tape essential sewing supplies

    Marking pencil/marker 

    Another one of our essential sewing supplies that’s definitely useful to have on hand is a marking pencil or marker. You can also use chalk, if you want. Whatever you choose, it needs to be water soluble! I wish I could have told inexperienced, teenage me this before I used a sharpie to mark the button placket on my white shirt. You don’t want to stain your new project! The benefit of using a marking pencil or marker that’s made for sewing is that it will probably be made with water soluble ink. That means when you wash it it will be gone. No permanent stains on your new shirt!

    Seam Gauge

    A seam gauge is another essential sewing supply you’ll be grateful for. This makes measuring hems and seam allowances much more precise and efficient. This one also has a handy point at one end for turning corners.

    Marking pencil and seam gauge essential sewing supplies

    Pins, Safety Pins, and Needles

    Regular straight pins are a very useful sewing supply to have on hand. They help pin things in place so you can cut and sew precisely without things slipping around! Safety pins are also nice for times when you need to pin something and then try it on–that way you don’t have to worry about jabbing yourself with a sharp point as you’re taking it on and off! Also, you’ll use safety pins for turning casings and narrow things right side out.

    You’ll also want a variety of needles on hand–hand sewing needles are great, especially for details you don’t want to show, as well as buttons, mending, and hand-stitching things closed.  You’ll also want some extra sewing machine needles (try as I might, I still manage to break my sewing machine needles more frequently than I’d like to admit). Luckily, most sewing machines come with a few extras.

    Thread

    For any sewing project, make sure you pick up some matching thread! You won’t be able to sew without it. My favorite brand is Gutermann–their thread is strong and they usually have great color options. But you can also go with Coats and Clark. It’s a bit cheaper, but still great quality and versatile. 

    Thread

    Bobbins

    It’s nice to have a decent amount of extra bobbins on hand. Your machine will come with a few, but if you’re like me and your projects are colorful, you’ll probably have bobbins of almost every color of the rainbow. It’s nice to not have to reuse the same four bobbins if you’re in that boat!

    Seam Ripper

    Last but definitely not least is a seam ripper. As much as I’d like to think I can make it through a whole project with no errors, that’s more of a dream than reality. I’ve messed up enough times to want my seam ripper close at hand for every sewing project. Plus, if buttonholes are involved, a seam ripper is part of the process.

    I made a nice discovery recently–most sewing machines come with a basic little seam ripper. But you can also buy fancier ones with bigger handles that make them easier to hold.

    seam ripper

    More Inspiration

    Did you love this post on essential sewing supplies? There’s more where that came from! Check out the rest of our Sewing Basics series here. You won’t want to miss this DIY Fanny Pack or these cute DIY pencil cases, either! Also, see our past sewing projects: New Team Outfits, Easter outfits, Casetify inspired projects, shaped throw pillows, Mother’s Day apron, quilted shower curtain, quilted face mask, rainbow buttons, reusable lunch sack, and DIY beeswax wraps.

    DIY Fanny Pack

    Brittany
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    DIY Fanny Pack

    Fanny Pack Featuring Colorblock Stripes

    My main requisite for this fanny pack was color. If you haven’t read my thoughts on the need for color, see this post and then this one. Well, the world’s lack of color extends to functional accessories like fanny packs. It’s pretty insane to me the number of black fanny packs that appear in a google search. I knew mine, on the other hand, had to be colorful and make me feel happy whenever I put it on.

    Well, the perfect opportunity presented itself. We’ve been working on a few different bold stripes to add to our Spoonflower shop, and settled on four different colorways that are amazing together. For all the stripe options we considered, click here.

    fanny pack with pattern

     

    How to Make a DIY Fanny Pack

    Prepping the Fabric

    1. First, prewash your fabric and tumble dry. Here’s the fabric we used.
    2. Meanwhile, download, print and cut out your fanny pack pattern found here.
    3. When your fabric is washed and dried, iron it out flat.
    4. After you’re done ironing, follow the instructions on the fanny pack pattern (here) to cut out your pattern pieces. Make sure to cut the pattern pieces out with the stripes running vertically, if you’re using stripes. When you’re done cutting, you should have eight separate pieces total, two of each of the four colors.

    First Sewing Steps

    Now you’re ready to sew your fanny pack together!

    1. First, with right sides together, sew the darts, then iron out the crease.
    2. Next, sew the two front pieces together along the center seam with right sides together. Repeat for the two back pieces. Do the same for the lining and iron the center seams flat. You should now have four pieces of fabric total–two front, with the stripes sewn together along the center seam and mirrored, and two back, again, with the stripes mirrored and joined at the center seams (see fanny pack pattern visual to see how the stripes should be mirrored).

    Sewing the Zipper

    1. Now it’s time to sew the zipper. For this, line up the two front pieces (outside and lining) with right sides together and pin in place. 
    2. Use the guide on the fanny pack pattern and a fabric marker or pencil to trace the zipper stitch line onto the wrong side of the outside front piece.
    3. After that, sew the two pieces together along the zipper stitch line, backstitching at the end.
    4. Now cut a slit down the center of the box you just sewed. At both ends, leave about a centimeter and cut a slit to each corner, as shown in the step photos.
    5. Next, flip the pieces of fabric right side out and iron. You should now have a neat little rectangle in the center of your two front pieces.
    6. Now, pin the zipper in place inside the box with the front of the zipper facing the front. Using the zipper foot, sew all the way around the box. If needed, you can unzip the zipper a bit to make it easier to sew.

    Adding the Lining and Straps

    1. For the lining, take one of the back pieces, line it up with the top front piece and pin, right sides together. Take care to make sure the second front piece is out of the way.
    2. Next, pin the straps in place (you should have two straps that are each 1 yard long). They should be positioned towards the top of the pouch on either side of the zipper, with each end flush with the raw edges of the fabric. The strap should be sandwiched between the two fabric pieces, hidden from view.
    3. Now sew around the “U,” making sure to not sew across the top yet and reinforcing across the straps.
    4. After sewing the first set, repeat for the other two pieces, sewing one front piece to one back piece with right sides together, avoiding the top. You should now have two separate, closed pouches back to back.
    5. Once all the pieces are sewn, stack them inside each other, then line up, pin, and sew the top. Make sure the zipper is open at this point so you can flip the fanny pack after sewing.
    6. Now, finish the straight raw edge with a zig zag or overlock stitch, then flip it so it’s right side out and iron.

    Finishing Touches

    All that’s left now is to add the buckle and adjustable strap!

    1. You’ll make the strap adjustable first. For this, take the adjustable strap slider and feed the strap through as shown in the photos.
    2. Now, wrap the fanny pack around your waist and adjust until it’s a comfortable fit. Slip around the buckle, cut off the excess (see photos for the visual on how to do this) and sew into place.
    3. Done!

    More Inspiration

    Looking for more sewing projects? Try these pencil cases and a whole host of sewing projects on the blog! Also see our shop for plenty of templates and patterns. Wanting to improve your sewing knowledge? See our sewing basics series!

    Heirloom Ornament Craft Along!

    Brittany
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    Heirloom Ornament Craft Along!

    Crafting with a Cause

    If you’re new to all of this, let me clue you in. One of the things that makes the holidays so special to me, aside from seeing family and enjoying good food, is that it’s the season of giving. It seems like it’s the one time all year where the world shares the same sentiment of generosity and helping each other. So while we are crafting for the holidays, it seems fitting that we should include that charitable aspect as well.

    I recently partnered with Nest (see this blog post, and this one) and I’m now part of their advisory board. Nest supports artisans throughout the global economy — most of which are women. The purpose of our craft alongs, starting with last year’s, was to raise money for Nest and support their cause to build a world of greater gender equity and economic inclusion.

    Last Year’s Craft Along

    I have to say, last year’s craft along was one of the highlights of the year. There was so much creative energy and excitement surrounding it, it was amazing to see and be a part of. If you missed it, here’s a quick recap:

    We made two sets of our popular mid-century heirloom nativity; one we painted here in the studio at Lars. Then we sent once piece of the other set to each of our guests for them to paint. Each week we held live videos where we got to chat with our amazing guests as we painted our respective nativity pieces. Here’s the post where you can read all about last year’s guests. Oh, and here’s a transcript from our interview with Amanda Seyfried! While all the crafting with our guests was happening, we also opened up this link for donations.

    At the end of the craft along, we auctioned off both sets and donated the proceeds to Nest, an organization whose mission is to support female makers in the global economy. Thank you thank you to all who donated or contributed in any way! It was a huge success and we are thrilled to be back at it again this year!

    Nativity

    This Year’s Heirloom Ornament Craft Along

    Let’s get to it. Below is everything you need to know about this year’s heirloom ornament craft along!

    Heirloom Ornament Craft Along FAQ

    What is a “craft along”?

    Think of it like a crafty version of a book club. We all get to work on the same project, have a weekly get together to craft, chat, and join a fun community.

    Why a craft along?

    Our heirloom ornament craft along is a perfect opportunity to get ready for Christmas (because we all know that it sneaks up on us every year) and get to know your Lars community a bit better. Even though summer’s still on its way out, we wanted to jump into our handmade holiday plans early. Get a head start on your handmade holidays and join in the fun with this heirloom ornament craft along!

    How does the craft along work?

    As mentioned above, we are working with Nest to raise money for makers all over the world. For this year’s craft along, we’ve set the goal to raise $5,000 for Nest. 

    Our goal is to raise that money through the following:

    1. Ebook sales (with and without a kit included)
    2. Donations using this link
    3. Auctioning off a custom set of Heirloom Ornaments made by our team here at Lars
    4. Auctioning off a set of Heirloom Ornaments made by our guests

    The money earned from the auction will be donated to Nest, and we’ll ship the ornaments to the winners of the auctions!

    Family Photo Heirloom Ornament

    Who are your guest hosts?

    We are really excited to chat more about our guest lineup soon!

    Stay tuned for more details about our guest hosts. We can hardly believe that so many incredible crafters have joined us for this project! You can click here to see the guests that joined us last year. We were lucky enough to have Amanda Seyfried, Mary Engelbreit and so many other wonderful guests! 

    How long will the craft along be happening?

    Our first guest will join us on Monday, October 3rd, and we’ll wrap up with our last guest on Monday, November 21st. Our auction will be announced following the last guest.

    What if I miss a week?

    If you miss a week or two, that’s completely fine! The good thing about this heirloom ornament craft along is that it’s virtual. We will save the Instagram Lives where we craft with our guests hosts, and you can watch them on your own time. We’ll also compile the videos into one blog post after they’re over so you can see them all in one place (see the guest videos from last year here). With the ebook and video, you will have all the information you need to complete a set of ornaments. 

    How much does it cost?

    There are a few different options:

    1. You can purchase our Ebook & kit – the kit will come with everything you need for 8 ornaments along with the Ebook (which includes step by step video) to guide you.
    2. You can purchase our Ebook only and purchase the supply list on your own. We spent a lot of time beefing it up and it now includes step by step videos!

    We have gone through our Heirloom Ornament Ebook with a fine toothed comb to make sure that it is clear, concise, and easy to follow. We’ve also added in a step by step video to ensure that any questions you have are answered!

    There you have it! Everything you need to get crafty!

    Family Photo Heirloom Ornament

    Will you hold an auction at the end?

    Yes! Last year the auction turned out to be a wonderful way to raise money for Nest, so we want to do it again! As mentioned before, we’ll auction off two separate sets of ornaments. One of those sets will be the set made by our special guest crafters. For the other set, we’ll be auctioning off a “made to order” set. In other words, the winner of that set will send in their photos, we’ll make the set for them, and send it back! If you love these heirloom ornaments but aren’t keen on the idea of making them yourself, this might be the perfect solution. 

    How do I start?!

    While you wait for our heirloom ornament craft along to officially begin, the first thing you should do is order your supplies! You can get the full Heirloom Ornaments Ebook & Kit here, and the Heirloom Ornaments Ebook without the kit here. Then, mark your calendars for our first guest on October 3rd!

    family heirloom ornaments photo transfer

    Can’t wait to craft with you! Feel free to spread the word! 

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